In an era where sustainability is not just a buzzword but a mandate for the fashion industry, London-based Modern Synthesis is redefining the production of eco-friendly materials. The company, co-founded by former Adidas designer Jen Keane and synthetic biologist Dr. Ben Reeve, has made headlines by collaborating with Danish fashion brand GANNI to create the ‘Bou Bag’—an innovative accessory fashioned from a leather alternative that owes its existence to the efficiency of bacteria.
The Intersection of Fashion and Biotechnology
At the heart of Modern Synthesis’ approach is the use of nanocellulose, a substance produced by sugar-eating bacteria. Unlike other biomaterials companies that have focused on mycelium-based products, Modern Synthesis has found a way to harness the strength of bacterial nanocellulose by combining it with natural textiles like hemp, linen, or lyocell. The result is a robust material that can be processed on the same equipment as conventional textiles, potentially revolutionizing the industry’s supply chain.
The Journey from Sportswear to Biomaterials
Jen Keane’s journey into the world of biomaterials began at the intersection of textile technology and fashion design during her time at Cornell. Her extensive experience in the sportswear industry, particularly at Adidas, exposed her to the forefront of textile innovation. It was during her work on the ‘Parley for the oceans’ project that Keane became acutely aware of the environmental impact of materials and the limitations of simply recycling plastics. This realization propelled her to pursue a Master’s in material futures at Central Saint Martin’s, where she met her future business partner, Dr. Ben Reeve.
The Genesis of Modern Synthesis
Modern Synthesis officially came to life in 2019, but it was the onset of the pandemic in 2020 that catalyzed Keane and Reeve’s full-time commitment to the venture. Leveraging the natural efficiency of bacteria that produce nanocellulose, which has been used in medical, beauty, and food applications, the duo embarked on a mission to create sustainable materials for the fashion industry. The strength of nanocellulose is a key factor in its potential for creating durable, eco-friendly products. At a fiber level, it’s eight times stronger than steel, forming robust nano networks that can be biologically combined with a textile scaffold.
Scaling Up with Nature’s Builders
The bacteria used by Modern Synthesis are not genetically modified but are naturally proficient at producing nanocellulose. This efficiency makes the scaling process more feasible and allows the company to focus on enhancing the material’s properties through their patent-pending technology. The production process has evolved from growing bacteria directly with textiles to a three-step method that includes growing nanocellulose in fermentation vessels, enhancing its properties, and then combining it with natural textiles using conventional textile equipment.
The result is a material that is not only high-value and low-impact but also free from petrochemicals and plastics. This positions Modern Synthesis at the forefront of sustainable material innovation, ready to meet the demands of an industry under pressure to reduce its environmental footprint.
The Bou Bag: A Glimpse into the Future of Fashion
The partnership with GANNI and the creation of the Bou Bag is a testament to the potential of Modern Synthesis’ biomaterials. It represents a shift towards a more sustainable fashion industry where the materials used are as important as the designs they help create. With the ability to process these biomaterials on existing equipment, the company is well-placed to integrate into and transform the current supply chains, making sustainable fashion not just a niche market but a widespread reality.
As the fashion industry continues to grapple with its impact on the planet, Modern Synthesis’ innovative use of bacteria to create eco-friendly materials is a beacon of hope. It’s a reminder that with ingenuity and collaboration, the industry can evolve to meet the challenges of our times without compromising on style or quality.