In the heart of Vermont, Eric J. B. vonWettberg, a researcher at the University of Vermont, is championing a cause that might seem unusual at first glance: the preservation of flavor in our crops. His recent article, published in the journal ‘Plants, People, Planet’ (which translates to ‘Plants, Humans, Planet’), argues that we’re losing more than just taste when we overlook the culinary and cultural aspects of our crop genetic resources.
VonWettberg and his colleagues are concerned about the way we manage our plant genetic resources, particularly the seeds held in ex situ germplasm collections, or genebanks. These collections are invaluable for breeding climate-resilient crops, but they’re often lacking in one crucial aspect: flavor data. “We’re collecting vast amounts of genomic information and high-throughput phenotypes,” vonWettberg explains, “but we’re often overlooking the traditional ecological knowledge (TEK) that’s been passed down through generations.”
This TEK includes everything from the specific dishes a particular variety is best suited for, to the farming practices used to cultivate it. It’s a wealth of information that’s at risk of being lost as landraces—traditional crop varieties—are no longer grown by the communities that developed them.
The implications of this loss are significant, both culturally and commercially. As our palates become more global, there’s a risk of appropriating culturally meaningful foods. But there’s also an opportunity to create new, sustainable, and resilient practices by drawing on this traditional knowledge.
VonWettberg emphasizes the importance of ensuring fair representation of diverse peoples in genebanks. He also advocates for in situ conservation approaches, which preserve not just the genetic diversity of crops, but the TEK associated with them.
The impact of modern breeding choices on culinary diversity is a pressing concern. By preserving ancestral knowledge and flavor profiles, we can ensure that our crops continue to be a source of both sustenance and cultural pride.
This research could shape future developments in the field by encouraging a more holistic approach to genebank management. It’s a call to action for researchers, policymakers, and consumers alike to value and preserve the flavor and cultural significance of our crops.
As vonWettberg puts it, “We’re not just talking about taste here. We’re talking about legacy, sustainability, and resilience. And that’s something we should all care about.”